Woo Hoo, Iguazú!

21:41 Friday March 13, 2009
Hostel Sweet Hostel, Puerto Iguazú

Iguazú falls, finally! Kara and I got up around 7 to get a head start so we could fit in as much as possible and after a delicious breakfast at the hostel, we headed to the bus station to grab the local bus to the Iguazú National Park.

We experienced a little bit of viveza criolla (the Argentine way of getting ahead by cunning or cutting corners in a dubious manner) getting into the park, after which we headed straight to the train to the Garganta del Diablo, or “Devil’s throat,” for our first view of the cataratas (waterfalls). We were absolutely ecstatic the whole time we walked along the metal pathways raised right above the water. When we got to the end of the path, we were directly at the edge of the one of the world’s most impressive waterfalls – and do I mean right at the edge; the water plunged directly below our feet 82 meters (269 ft) to the bottom. It was really surprising that the current at the top of the falls was so tranquil and flowed very slowly, it seems impossible that it could make such a large and violent cascade once it reached the edge. We were mesmerized just standing there and observing the flow; the different patterns as the water fell, the destructive convergence of water as it splashed out from the rock, the mist that rose from the very base of the falls due to the impact of the thousands of tons of water falling per minute.

Though we didn’t want to leave such a breath-taking sight, we knew there were many other gorgeous views to be seen, so we were off to the other two main paths. Hoping to meet up with the rest of our group, we took the Paseo Inferior, which led us down more metal pathways to the very bottom of some of the 275 individual falls (saltos) in the park. Along the way, we saw inspiring views and enjoyed stopping and just appreciating the fact that we were in the presence of such an incredible place.

When we finally reached the bottom of our humid descent, we took a ferry over to San Martin Island, which is located right in between the Garganta del Diablo section of the falls and the other main section made up of individual falls. Once we got off the boat, we plunged our overheated bodies into the water and had the best swim of our lives about 100 meters away from the falls. We just lay in the water with the most amazing bathing view. I still can’t believe that we were allowed to swim so close, it was definitely a highlight for me. The rocks underneath us in the water we awesome, and I felt like we were panning for gold as we picked out unique stones for the rock collection that Kara and I started at the Glacier Moreno. Most of the rocks were geodes, so that if you broke it apart, it revealed colorful greens and purples.

As I floated in the cool, clear water that moments ago was plunging over the precipice of the falls, I could look to my left back at the island that belonged in a classic adventure book with its lush tropical jungle at the top of cliffs that were stained with yellows, reds, oranges, whites, blacks, and browns and lead down to the rocky shore specked with large dark boulders. If I turned my head around behind me, I could see more steep cliffs with vibrant green plants above the river that continued to move lazily after its unexpected and rough journey over the falls. To the right were more cliffs and the paths that we had taken to get down to the bottom.

And to top off one of the most amazing 360 views ever, the piece de résistance was directly in front of me: the falls that stretched the whole expanse of my peripheral vision, complete with bright green plants that somehow managed to cling to the cliff sides despite the resistance from the water. Orange butterflies danced above the water and plants while large birds circled the bright blue and white-clouded sky that was frequented by rainbows.

Lindsey and Henry then joined us on the beach and we had a picnic lunch strewn across the burning hot rocks. We continued splashing around in the water a little bit more when the rest of the group joined us and then some of us hiked up stone paths to the top of the island. We were so close to the falls that we were misted by the water spray. Another path took us to “Sendero Ventana” (Window Path), and we got an awesome view of the Garganta del Diablo though a natural “window” of rock. After circling back around to see a view of Garganta del Diablo from the bottom, we joined the rest of the group for the last ferry off the island.

We then made our way through the Paseo Superior, which gave us great views from the top of the falls. We were constantly evading the park officials that were trying to get us to leave, but we eventually made it through all the paths and lookout points from the top. At one point as I was looking out at the falls, I looked back to the path and saw my friend Amanda from USA/Buenos Aires barreling toward me! I didn’t even realize that she was going to Iguazú this weekend and here we were, so far away from any place that we knew each other. Small world!

Other memories: lots of rainbows, palm trees, colorful butterflies, large gila monster, lizards (one with a green head in the process of changing colors), and garani (jungle animals similar to raccoons in that they came after people with food).

It was so beautiful we didn’t want to leave and such an incredible sight that there aren’t enough adjectives to describe everything we saw without being constantly repetitive. We had a wonderful day and everything was so perfect. Right now we are hanging out here at the hostel, but we are off to find some food and possible a reggae bar. I’m ecstatic to head to Paraguay in the morning with Kara!

Until then, Coli