The Bellybutton of the World

(AN: As mentioned in a previous post, Cusco translates to bellybutton of the world)

Friday April 3, 2009
Hotel in Cusco

Kara and I walked around the Plaza de Armas to visit both La Catedral de Cusco and La Compañia de Jesús (the two main churches), followed by the Museo de Arte Popular. We joined Hannah and Lindsey at the Museo del Templo del Qoricancha, which had a lot of information and artifacts about pre-Columbian cultures. There were even several well-preserved mummies displayed in their permanent fetal position thanks to their burial in large jars. They were usually wrapped like a cocoon in large blankets before being placed in these Andean versions of coffins - the more blankets, the richer they were. There were also several skulls that were purposely deformed; when the babies were young, they would place a wooden board on the skull to elongate and flatten it (Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull anyone? It has both the skulls and Iguazú falls in it!).

After trying several new exotic fruits that I had never seen before, we wandered aimlessly through the streets of the San Blas area with its picturesque buildings – many of the walls were made from straw and mud – and sloped stone streets. We then stumbled across a restaurant that gave the term “hole in the wall” a whole new meaning (it really was through a small crumbling doorway and had a stapled tarp for a roof). It was full of locals so we took their lead and ordered the menú for S/3.50 (little over US$1): sopa de Quinua (popular Andean soup) and revuelto de patitas (rice and potatoes with an amazing sauce). We also ordered lomo de alpaca and everything was delicious and filling. Speaking of food, our digestive systems have been making some transitions to the food here – nothing too drastic, but definitely noticeable.

We then met with the rest of the group and saw the famous 12 angle rock that is part of a building formerly owned by a powerful Incan family (actually, it might have dated back to the Wari culture, who were in Cusco since the 5th century AD). The original shape of Cusco was shaped like a puma, so this building was considered the stomach (middle of the city). The green tinged rocks of the building were placed in a formation like a flower, another way to prevent destruction from earthquakes.

After it hailed on us again, we then took a trolley tour throughout the city and wound our way up to a large statue of Jesus on a mountain overlooking the city. At night, Kara and I went to see a traditional Andean dance performance at the cultural center, after which we tried skewers of anticuchos (cow hearts) from a street vendor. A group of us went out later to the artsy Mama Africa, a discoteca (what they call clubs here) that had a balcony that looked out over the Plaza de Armas. Standing out on the large balcony with intricate woodwork dating from centuries back, it was an almost surreal contrast between the modern music and club scene behind me and the historic buildings lit by lamplight in front of me.

Last day in Cusco tomorrow!
Coli